Introduction
American Fork Canyon is a canyon named after the American Fork River. Located in the Wasatch Mountains, Utah of the United States, this American Fork Canyon is famous for the Timpanogos Cave National Monument that resides on its south side. In the Hell’s Cave area in the American Fork Canyon, there is a climb rated as 5.13d, which used to be one of the hardest climbs in the world. It used to attract many climbers from all over the world who wanted to conquer it and made multiple attempts. Interestingly, climbers from across the globe still travel to American Fork Canyon to test their climbing skills and gain more experience. It is estimated that annually, over a million people visit the American Fork Canyon.
A canyon is a deep and naturally carved valley by a river through rock with steep sides. They can be of varied sizes, from narrow slits to huge trenches that could have a depth of thousands of feet. This American Fork Canyon can be visited with your National Park Annual pass or by paying a fee of $6 per car. Now, we have 560 sport routes up for American Fork Canyon and 45+ different crags to explore. A sport route is an already defined route where the climb is already bolted, and the climber only needs quickdraws to climb. A crag is a wall or an area where there are several different climbs for climbers, in short, for beginners to experienced ones; there is something for everyone on this adventure climber’s route.
Climbing History and Overview
It all started in the winter of 1988 when three friends named Bill Boyle, Boone Speed, and Jeff Pedersen made their way towards the south of Salt Lake City for the very first climb adventure up the steep northern slopes of the famous American Fork Canyon. It was heavy snowfall, around a foot of snow; they made their way in the next 40 minutes. However, their goal was to reach the south-facing limestone wall, which they were preparing as a new training ground.
Interestingly, today, this training ground hosts 20 classic lines from 5.11 to 5.14a. When this trio conquered American Fork Canyon, they celebrated it with a small campfire and hot chocolate. In fact, they also found a small cave on the left-hand side of the cliff to stay safe during snowfall. It’s a small cave that can easily occupy 2or 3 climbers, their gear, and a fire to provide a safe shelter in the chilled winters. Before they discovered this natural habitat, the American Fork Canyon used to be overlooked and almost completely remained off climbers’ radar for years.
Top Climbing Routes in American Fork Canyon
The American Fork Canyon has over 500 routes discovered since it first got exposed to the climbers. There are many routes in this adventure canyon, from beginners to experienced ones, pick the one that suits your climbing experience and expertise. Here, we have a list of some of the most exciting, interesting, and adventurous routes for you.
- Caress of Steel (5.10a)
- License to Thrill (5.11c)
- Division (5.11d)
- Unknown Pleasures (5.12a/b)
- If I Only Had a Brain (5.12b)
- The Abyss (5.12c/d)
- Malvado (5.13a)
- Burning (5.13b)
- The Blue Mask (5.13c)
- The Shining (5.13c)
For beginner or even intermediate climbers, the B-52 Wall is a great place to start their journey. It is flat, short, and well-shaded for families and groups for experience. It is good to start for beginners, advanced beginners, and intermediates, as they can be able to climb it with a little effort, practice, and training.
Intermediate to advanced climbers can think of the next-level climbing experience with the Membrane Wall. It is a steep vertical climb that offers sustained overhangs to experience. Some of the famous climbs are Butterfingers, Steal Monkey, Caress of Steal, Insane, and Mucus to explore. Often, in the summer, this area is usually in the shade, which makes it easy to approach, closer, and preferred by families or groups.
Interestingly, there is a classic climb known as Rockapella. In this area, it is high above the canyon floor, and you can enjoy the beautiful view from the top of the climb. Due to this view, it is quite popular, and you might have to wait, as most of the climbers are interested in reaching the top. Yet, it is riskier, so be careful while hiking out as it dumps back on the road with speeding cars on it.
Climbing Conditions and Best Time to Visit
The American Fork Canyon and Rock Canyon in Utah have ideal outdoor climbing conditions for year-round climbing trips. In the valley, the temperature can be high, but usually, around the American Fork Canyon and Rock Canyon, it is the 80s or cooler. The best time to visit is around spring and fall when the temperature is slightly more soothing and moderate. Climbers have an advantage here as the steep approach is under the shade, so they can climb any time of the year with a little more comfort.
Essential Gear for Climbing
Going on a canyon adventure trip requires you to be prepared with the correct gear, such as various sizes of ropes, a Bolt Kit, harness, a Daisy Chain, a Rappel device, a lock carabiner, a backpack, Contact Strap Crampons, and more. However, we have listed some more essential gear that one should be equipped with before going to the famous American Fork Canyon and Rock Canyon.
– Chalk
A must-have for rock climbers for climbing and better grip in difficult areas as chalk doesn’t dry out hands quickly.
– Slings
One can use different sizes, lengths, and types of contact slings, so keep the one that suits you.
– First aid kit
This is one thing that climbers must carry; one can keep a small kit with blister prevention and care products, Tylenol, Band-aids, and Ibuprofen to take care of minor injury, pain, fever, etc.
– Guidebook
Before you plan for American Fork Canyon and Rock Canyon, buy and keep the Climber’s Guide and other books to help you understand. Some guides recommended by experts are available here at Summit Hut, like Grand canyon books, Grand canyon camping guides, travel books, and more.
Safety Tips and Ethical Considerations
Safety is a primary concern that one should never ignore on such adventure trips. Make sure you have all the safety gear and first aid kit with you. As the interaction is with nature, one needs to follow ethical considerations like minimal use of plastic and fire, minimal pollution, keeping the caves and other places clean, avoiding dumping garbage at the site, and respecting the wildlife around. We have listed a couple of these safety and ethical tips to keep in mind for a memorable climbing experience.
- Climb within your ability level and physical capability limit
- Make sure to always wear a climbing helmet
- Double-check the rope and belay device
- Respect wildlife and other climbers
- Always climb with the rope over your leg
- Double-check that your equipment is in good condition
- Always double-check harnesses, knots, anchors, and all other safety equipment
- Know your route and always pay attention to the details and instructions around
- Always be prepared to manage and handle injuries or other unexpected changes
- Keep clear communication with your group, and always be ready for SOS calls or falling rocks
Final Thoughts
American Fork Canyon, Rock Canyon, and more such exciting and thrilling adventure routes are located in the national forest, so we’re supposed to follow the sanity of the land while enjoying the adventure. Rock climbing has been a great outdoor adventure activity to explore nature, learn to manage difficult situations, and explore your own physical and mental capabilities. Even if this is your first ever experience, you should try to learn and experience it with proper training and gear to conquer the canyon and the fear in you.
Experts recommend that the newcomer be prepared with the correct set of climbing gear, clothing, and safety equipment as the best advice for climbing. You can explore more with the help of these guide books like Grand Canyon books, Grand Canyon camping guides, and more to learn about Canyon climbing. Stay tuned for more to learn from the Summit Hut experts and explore here; we have more exciting write-ups for you.
FAQs
1. What is the best rock Canyon climbing book?
Rock Canyon climbing is an adventure activity that attracts many individuals who share similar interests. There are many books available in the market to learn about climbers’ experiences and use as a comprehensive guide. We have a book named “Climber’s Guide to American Fork Canyon, Rock Canyon,” that provides detailed information about this climber’s experience and guide; you can buy it here at Summit Hut.
2. What is the most aesthetically pleasing rock climbing place?
Rock climbers have different viewpoints on nature. There are many aesthetically pleasing rock climbing destinations across the globe, like USA Red Rock, Excalibur in Groningen – Netherlands, Tasman Peninsula in Australia, Italian Dolomites, Grampians in Australia, Miyar Valley in India, Yosemite National Park in the USA, Tonsai and Railay in Thailand, and more. You can read more about them in any of these adventure books at Summit Hut.
3. What are the top rock climbing places in North America?
In North America, you will find many rock climbing destinations like Red River Gorge (Kentucky), Joshua Tree National Park (California), Devils Tower National Monument (Wyoming), Yosemite National Park (California), Zion National Park (Utah), Acadia National Park (Maine), New River Gorge (West Virginia), Smith Rock State Park (Oregon), Red Rock Canyon (Nevada), and more. You can read about them and learn to explore more on your next climbing trip.