Introduction
Queen Creek Canyon, located an hour east of Phoenix, AZ is a picturesque outdoor recreation area. Along with several volcanic towers, it is an ideal spot for climbing and bouldering. If you are an avid rock climber, the Queen Creek area has countless routes and boulders to scale.
Overview of Queen Creek Canyon
If we talk about the geography, Queen Creek Canyon is located in the Superstition Mountains of Arizona. It is surrounded by a spectacular landscape of mountains and deserts. I vividly remember the saguaro cacti and breathtaking sunsets we witnessed on our adventure trip to Queen Creek Canyon. It has walls and spires made from welded volcanic tuff, comparable to Smith Rock, OR but less sharper. The Queen Creek Canyon Climbing area includes the Road Area, Oak Flat East and West, Euro Dog Valley, and The Mine area. These regions are located majorly in the Tonto National Forest.
Best time of year to visit for climbing and hiking
The best time to visit Queen Creek Canyon is October to April. During these months, it is cooler and more comfortable for the climbers to navigate through the desert climate.
Road Area
The Road Area has several natural rock formations. Highway 60 traverses through Queen Creek canyon crossing a short tunnel, over an exposed bridge and down into Superior town. We had thoroughly enjoyed that ride and I still remember the lovely pictures I had clicked throughout the route. The Road Area covers Atlantis, Little England Wall, the Old Tunnel, Queen Sceptre, El Paso Wall, The Pond, Sunday School Wall, Shooting Gallery, Winnebago Wall, Diamond Buttress, Wounded Knee Wall, and South End.
Oak Flat (East and West)
Oak Flat is located in Pinal County about 40 miles east of Phoenix in the Tonto National Forest. Oak Flat is a beautiful canyon and plateau saturated with boulders. It has flat landings and you will see top rope anchors already in place for some problems. Phoenix Bouldering Contests were mostly held here. It is home to magnificent boulder problems in a cool shady ambiance. People love areas like Atlantis #2, Davey Jones Locker, and Guppy Wall.
If you love biodiversity and exploring the beautiful creations of Nature, you would certainly love the Oak Flat area with its rare flora and fauna.
Source: https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/campaigns/oak_flat/
Euro Dog Valley
This area has many balanced formations. Just like Oak Flat, Euro Dog Valley is also one of the locations of the past Phoenix Bouldering Contests. Titanic Wall has moderate routes while critically difficult routes lie on the Hook Wall. Euro Dog Valley has tall shade trees and multiple cool rock formations, making it a comfortable adventure spot.
The Mine
The Mine has a moon-like landscape with small thimble rock domes merging into one another. Whether you are traveling with your kids, pet, or the elderly, this region is suitable for everyone to hike around. It comprises a fun boulder hopping area and also allows you to wedge through the corridors and up the chimneys. If you love bouldering, The Mine Area with its 155 routes and 126 boulder problems would be a haven for you.
Marty Karabin has curated all the necessary information covering trail access points and optimal climbing areas in the book: Climbing and Bouldering Guide to the Mine Area in Queen Creek Canyon. It also has illustrated maps to help you out.
Also Read This: Climbing in American Fork & Rock Canyon
Climbing Destinations and Routes in the Mine Area
There are six major climbing destinations in the Mine Area. They are:
- The Magma Gardens
- The Arena
- Upper Looner Land
- Lower Looner Land
- Apache Leap
- Lost Horizon
While the first four are a cluster of formations in the Mine Area, Apache Leap is the cliff’s edge just beyond this area. Lost Horizon lies at the south of the three Telephone poles on the Leap side.
How to reach the Mine Area?
Drive up the road out of Superior and go through the tunnel for another mile and a half. It will bring you to a sign marking the turnoff to Oak Flat Campground. Turn right and follow the paved road as it takes you to Magma Mine. About a hundred yards short of the actual mine entrance on the left, you will find a parking lot just off the road.
To reach the Mine Area, hike the dirt road heading generally south out of the parking lot. It will go south before curving back to the west. Keep going west up the wash and you will reach Lower Looner Land. Upper Looner Land is a few hundred yards west and a bit north of the westernmost Lower Looner formations.
Advice for Bouldering in the Mine Area
Are you planning an adventure excursion in the Mine Area, including bouldering? If yes, these tips would surely help you out.
1. Use proper bouldering technique:
- Climb with your feet
The lower body can bear the weight better than the upper body. Therefore, you must put your weight on the feet to climb safely.
- Keep the weight on your skeleton
Rather than flexing your arms and keeping them sucked in close to the wall, hold them straight when hanging from holds. It will allow your muscles to rest instead of being continuously engaged.
- Maintain quiet feet
Keep your feet as quiet as possible. Choose a climbing route below your limit. Select a foothold, place your foot on it, and step up keeping yourself calm and attentive.
- Take proper rest
If you are climbing through a long route, take rest whenever you encounter a stance. Shake out your muscles to recover. Drop one or both arms to recharge yourself for the remaining route.
- Work on building a strong core
Engage the core for better balance and stability while climbing.
- Practice deep breathing and maintain a positive approach
As you climb, practice deep breathing to keep yourself focused and calm. Also, maintain a positive attitude and speak affirmations that keep you going through the trail.
2. Keep the bouldering mats free and clear for the boulderers.
3. Do not run, play, or lie on these mats.
4. Give enough space on the walls to the boulderers (above, below, left, and right)
5. Make sure you use only the walls and the holds while bouldering and not the building structure.
6. Never place any objects on the mats.
7. Refrain from wearing any jewelry or watches while bouldering.
Note: Just reading these instructions won’t make you an expert climber. It takes practice, persistence, and determination to scale the heights and enjoy the adrenaline rush.
Also Read This: Top Rock Climbing Destinations in Arizona
Climbing at Queen Creek Canyon
Queen Creek Canyon is a haven for climbing enthusiasts. The Pond, Atlantis, Lower Devil’s Canyon, and Apache Leap are the major crags in this region.
Let’s talk about these climbing spots in further detail.
A. The Pond
The Pond has diverse climbing routes ranging from easy to difficult levels. They are:
- Pocket Puzzle (5.10a)
It is a steep route with fun, sustained climbing on decent-sized holds.
- Pocket Warmer (5.6)
If you are a beginner looking forward to hone your skills or an experienced climber wishing to warm up, Pocket Warmer has wonderful holds and clipping positions.
- The Big Weld Show (5.11a)
This route has dynamic moves, thin edges, and big juggy holds.
B. Atlantis
Atlantis has steep climbs that would challenge your strength and proficiency. It includes:
- The Trident (5.9)
It is a three-pitch route and every pitch increases in the difficulty level.
- Neptune (5.10a)
With good holds and diverse climbing routes, Neptune makes for a perfect climbing spot.
- Ali Cat and Hide and Seek (5.7)
A reasonably steep route, Ali Cat is full of large handholds. If you are an amateur, Hide and Seek offers a great scaffold to practice.
C. Lower Devil’s Canyon
Lower Devil’s Canyon has steep, exposed routes that would test your skills. It has climbing spots like:
- Eyes of the World (5.11a)
This 115’ route allows for sustained, scenic climbing.
- The Totem Pole (5.10c/d)
The Totem Pole is a thin tower with a picturesque view.
- Accelerated Climb ology (5.9)
Not exactly a sport route, Accelerated Climb ology is a fun climbing route with face and crack climbing. It is great for trad climbers.
D. Apache Leap
Apache Leap has traditional as well as sport routes for climbing enthusiasts. This region is named after the honorable Apache warrior who leaped from its cliffs to evade getting captured. The three of the coolest routes here are:
- Geronimo (5.7)
It is a two-pitch sport route on a mountain ridge, presenting lovely views for the climber.
- Knotty Tower (5.9+)
It offers good holds in a beautiful setting. Imagine witnessing a pretty sunset from up the tower.
Gear and Preparation for Outdoor Adventures at Queen Creek Canyon
Preparing for Outdoor Adventures at Queen Creek Canyon
The first step to preparing for an adventure at Queen Creek Canyon is choosing the right route that matches your strength and skill. Use climbing guidebooks to learn about the difficulty of climbs. In the U.S., the Yosemite Decimal System is used to rate the climbs, according to which 5.3 is beginner level while 5.15 is for expert climbers. Note that these ratings represent the difficulty and not the danger. If you are a beginner, choose routes under 5.7 or routes that can be top-roped. In top-roping, the climber establishes an anchor from the top of the climb to keep the rope in place instead of leading the route from the bottom.
Outdoor Gear for Queen Creek Canyon Climbing
All types of climbing require a pair of appropriate climbing shoes. Find comfortable footwear that is neither too tight nor too loose. Carry a chalk bag and chalk. You can either wear around the waist or keep on the ground. Climbers use chalk to dry off sweat and prevent slipping off the rock. In addition, boulderers will also require bouldering pads placed in the fall zone of a boulder problem.
Climbing harness is also an important rock climbing gear for navigating through Queen Creek Canyon. You get climbing harnesses in different weights and specifications. While some are good for sport climbing, others are suitable for trad climbing. Just make sure you invest in an affordable harness as they need to be replaced at regular intervals.
Every climber will need a belay device and locking carabiner to belay their partner and rappel if needed. Also, wear a helmet to protect yourself from any serious head injuries caused by falling. Furthermore, you would also need climbing-specific rope, a personal anchor, extra locking carabiners, cams, nuts, quickdraws, and slings. As a best practice, always identify the age of the gear and buy new ones in case the old ones seem worn out and degraded.
Always be prepared for unforeseen circumstances and keep headlamps, navigation tools, and hydration packs in your backpacks for climbing. I also recommend you carry climbing books and guides to get more familiar with the area you are traveling to.
Conclusion
Queen Creek Canyon is the best amalgamation of the desert landscape and the finest sport climbing routes. With climbing crags, towering rock formations, and panoramic view of the vast desert stretching out in front of you, hiking trails of Queen Creek Canyon truly present a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
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FAQs
What are the best climbing spots in Queen Creek Canyon?
Apache Leap, Atlantis, The Pond, and Lower Devil’s Canyon are the most popular climbing spots in Queen Creek Canyon.
Are there guidebooks available for Queen Creek Canyon climbing?
If you are planning an excursion to Queen Creek Canyon, I strongly recommend two travel guide books by Marty Karabin. He has put together all the required information for the Road Area and Lower Devil’s Canyon in these guides. They include illustrated maps with trail access points, general advice, and optimal climbing areas to help the climbers with every detail they would possibly need.
What are the safety considerations for climbing in Queen Creek Canyon?
While climbing in Queen Creek Canyon, you have to be wary of the following safety considerations:
- Be cautious of the rusty bolts.
- Devil’s Canyon has multiple routes with sandbagging and broken holds.
- Stay hydrated and take breaks at regular intervals to keep altitude sickness at bay.
- Use proper outdoor gear like a helmet to navigate through the climbing spots.
- Listen to your body and slow down if you feel dizzy or nauseous.